I cleared 24 square metres of garden, which was previously covered in paving slabs, in November 2006. I have since dug and re-dug the soil, cleared it of stones and roots, etc. My father may have applied weed killer, but I can't be 100% sure.
Before I lay down (expensive) turf, I'd like to be sure I shouldn't do something else first. Should I add weedkiller and then soil nutrients and wait a week or two?
Any other tips with re. to turfing?
Turfing new lawn?
To acquire a healthy lawn, you need to have good soil and a great irrigation system. If you happen to have weeds growing on the area you're about to sod, you should spray Roundup to kill those weeds. Wait for 10 days to make sure you obtain proper eradication.
Follow is my recommendation on what you should consider before laying down sod or grass seed;
1) Apply granular gypsum at label recommendations. Gypsum helps loosen compacted soils, prevents crusting of soil, increases the stability of soil organic matter and provides a source of calcium to plants.
2) Apply a generous amount of clean compost (4 inches in depth) and steer manure (1 to 2 inches) over the entire area of your yard and water. The beneficial bacteria and fungi in the compost and manure will slowly begin to help loosen the soil...allowing water and oxygen to the soils. They will also help bind soil particles together so the soil becomes more manageable. AND the organic matter provides an excellent food source for microbes and earthworms which help aerate soils. Water the compost every 3 or 4 days...this will allow the "compost tea" to seep into the soil below.
3) After a few weeks, you should see an improvement of your soil. The soil should become more manageable (softer). Stop watering and when your soil becomes moist and not muddy, roto-till the entire area to a depth of 5 to 6 inches or more. You may need to make several passes to insure thorough incoporation of the compost into the soil.
4) At this time, either purchase a pH meter at your local hardware store or take a sample of your soil to the nearest County Farm Advisor's Office to obtain a proper pH reading. You may have to add lime (if your soil is acidic) OR some soil sulfur (if it's above 7.0). Ideally, you'll want the pH of your soil to be around 6.5 to grow a healthy lawn. Once you obtain the pH of the soil, add the amendments (lime or sulfur) and roto-till again.
5) Install your irrigation system...preferably on electric timers so you can water up to several times a day till your sod/grass seed becomes well-established. Make sure you get proper overlap between sprinklers to insure adequate coverage of the entire lawn area.
6) Smooth/level the entire area to be planted...making sure you eliminate any low areas to prevent water from accumulating. A landscaper's rake or screed is ideal to do this job.
7) Prior to broadcasting seed or installing sod, I would advise you to apply a starter fertilizer such as a 6-20-20. This will insure that your roots/seedlings will have the proper nutrients.
8) Since you're starting from sod, your local sod farm should be able to advise you on what is best for your situation. It's a good idea to read on how to properly install sod...especially if you've never done it before. When you sod, make sure you place the sod as tightly together as possible or else the water will run between the seams and begin to erode away the soil beneath. Remember to stagger the rolls as you would laying bricks. AND keep the sod moist during installation.
9) Water 2 to 3 times a day (depending on your weather)....preferably once in the early morning, once late morning and the last watering to be completed by 3 or 4 P.M. Each watering should be for about 10 to 15 minutes for each set. Try to avoid watering in the evening or night because this may cause watermolds (such as pythium) to develop and kill your seedlings.
Continue to water for at least 2 weeks (or longer) until you begin to see white fine roots establishing themselves in the soil. At this time, you can determine how often you should water your lawn each week.
Fertilize about 10 to 14 days after installation. Apply one pound of actual Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. (for example; a 16-6-8 (sold as Turf Supreme) should be applied at a rate of 6 1/2 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
Weedkillers, if needed, can be applied about 8 weeks after installation.
Sorry for the lengthy response but thought you could use this information. Hope this helps get you a healthy and beautiful lawn for your kids. GOOD LUCK!
-Certified Professional Crop Consultant with over 30 years of experience and a Degree in Plant Science
Reply:If you have a tiller, I would add in sand to aerate, and weed killer/ bug killer. Now add a layer of top soil, composted with horse or cow manure. Lay down your sod, with plenty of water, sit back and watch it grow. In 6 months, begin year round fertilizers according to your area. I like Scotts, but Medina is great for South Texas.
Reply:When laying turf remember green side up.
Reply:you really need to rotovate the soil, a lot easier than digging it, but a little more expensive. then you need to roll the soil. this is VERY important. the soil needs to be very compacted when you lay grass or it doesnt grow even. while you are rolling and compacting the soil make sure you have it all level. you can now get really technical if you wanrt to now. most grass preferes a ph of between 6 and 7.5, but i wouldnt worry about this if i was you. then when you are satisfied its level and there are no more weeds etc lay the grass. now this is where the fun starts. laying grass is a right bast*rd, i hate doing it. the process is different depending on what type of grass you are going to lay. but for most grass the process is...
start by laying a strip on the left hand side, then one on the right hand side. one strip wont be long enough to cover the whole lenght so when you join two pieces over lap them by about 4 inches. continue in this pattern until you get to the centre, making sure you always overlap the turf with the next piece or you will get patches in your lawn. if you have any places that are lower, fill in with top soil but remember to compact it before laying the grass. remember not to have two joins in the same place or it will look odd. when you have layed all the turf go over it with a roller. this will eliminate any air pockets cause when laying. then remember to water every day for a couple of months.
if you email me with the exact turf type i will tell you exactly how to lay it
good luck
Reply:You should wait at least 6 months after putting down weedkiller before you re turf...
Reply:Weed by hand, rotivate,rake and roll, then lay the turf, then roll again and water frequently. No need for weed killer so you can get on with it straight away.
Reply:rotavate the soil then using planks to stand on start from the farthest point away and lay the turf like a brick effect, after laying each piece of turf, use a flat square board to make sure its level and that the roots of the turf meet the soil. Water every day for 3-4 weeks but don't try to pull up the turf(to see if it has rooted) for a week or so. After this time gently try to pull up a corner and check it is rooted. Don't stand on newly laid turf for 5-6 weeks but if you really need to, use wooden boards so you don't damage it. Good luck
Reply:You need two things: a roller and topsoil. You can look for both at http://www.1800topsoil.com to find a local landscaper or call 1-800-TOP SOIL to see if they service your area. Roll before you lay the turf and after to make sure there is good contact. Good luck!
Reply:No, forget weedkiller, if you've had a lot of rain the weedkiller may have been washed away, unless your dad really put a lot down, otherwise don't worry. For goodness sake don't add anymore weedkiller because a lawn is in effect a weed and will kill off new turf. Just turf the area. Weeds will start to grow literally overnight, so if you see a weed in a couple of days then it's OK to lay your lawn.
isotoner slippers
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